Monday, May 4, 2009

Rush - Restaurant Calgary

Rush - Restaurant Calgary

Rush – Tasting menu for two, including wine, tax and tip: About $325
We are each given a small pair of scissors; they mark my transition into my late twenties. Before this moment and afterward are connected by the same lounge music I play while opening a bottle of wine on weekend nights when I pretend to have a terrace with a view, concentrating at the cutting board, trying to cook something I’ve never had before. Here, after the sixth course of our tasting menu at Rush, a grapefruit sorbet is presented, playfully, as a freezie.

These scissors cut distinctly between something I dream about having as a child and something I could have, really, something I could touch.
At Rush, everything is transformative. Take in the crystal drops hanging from covered lamps; notice the softness and sleek architecture of the room. The transformation is a quiet wave. Over dinner, textures intermingle: puree, emulsion, foam, snow, jus, cream, jelly. Each execution is exquisite: perfectly balanced with taste, texture and form.
And we play with the wine:
This one likes to mow the lawn, and drinks lemonade on the deck
This one is a Jet-setter in LA, with a pool and perfectly manicured nails
This one travels to exotic places on the company dime and wears suits on the airplane
This one has a pastry recipe that has been in the family for generations and has never travelled outside the province
And which one do I want to be? Each one is an archetype but none of them have the terrace.

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